Archive for Barcelona

Montjuic Park in Barcelona - the best park ever?

This post is about the day we spent exploring the Montjuic Park in Barcelona. It was a spectacular day, and Montjuic has become my lead candidate for “best park in the world.”
We arrived in style by taking the cable car from the edge of Barcelona harbor right into the side of the mountain. Although Zola had been nervous about the cable car, it was a great start to our adventure. We celebrated the fact that he survived the journey by having drinks (chocolate milk and wine) at the cafe next to the cable station. Even halfway up the mountain, the views were terrific.

From the cafe, we walked through the park for about 20 minutes (past the Olympic swimming pool, high above the city), and found the Joan Miro museum. I am finding that it is impossible to predict what will get the kids excited. Zola loved the Miro museum (particularly with the audio headset), and ran from picture to picture to hear the stories. On the roof deck, with no audio, he was even interested in the sculptures.

Of the two hours we spent at the museum, however, at least 40 minutes was in the room of white Legos. This was basically a long table with thousands of white Lego pieces scattered on it, and some structures already well advanced. Super cool for all ages.

After the museum, we walked to a different cable car, which took us up to the castle at the very top. We climbed the ramparts, looked at the military museum, and read about the battles and sieges (and the torture and execution of the President of Catalonia after the Civil War). From the walls we could see down into the working harbor, and lucky Zola got an in-depth lecture from me about the wonders of inter-modal transportation.

When they closed the castle, we walked down the mountain a ways, and found the best, most hazardous playground slides I have ever seen. Top to bottom was at least 35 vertical feet, and
Zola and Lu (in particular) were giddy with reckless exhiliration. India and I had to position ourselves at the bottom of the slide to catch Lu, so she didn’t fly off the end and really bust. Further evidence that Spain is not ruled by personal-injury lawyers.

We took the cable car back to the lower station, then walked along the (largely deserted) main park road in the twilight, looking for the Poble Espanyol, which was built for an exposition in 1929. We walked past the (feral-cat-infested) Olympic stadium, and found a palatial structure above us.

This 1929 palace is now the modern-art museum, but there was a huge crowd of people staring down the waterfall fountains of the grand entrance, at an even larger crowd around a circular fountain down below.

A few minutes after we arrived, the big circular fountain came alive with colored lights and showers, pulses and sprays. This is the famous Barcelona magic fountain, which we had stumbled upon. We walked a quarter mile down the grand entranceway, and sat on the lawn next to the big fountain for a long time. This is a classic Barcelona tourist moment, but we hadn’t really thought about it until we were there. It was truly spectacular and ridiculous.

So, we spent about six hours in the Montjuic Park, and saw two great museums, a castle, some great views, Olympic venues, and a big fountain and light show. We took two cablecars, rode a huge slide, and walked about five miles (with Lu mostly on my shoulders). This was a good day on the Baird family trip.

Comments

Gaudi’s Temple of the Sagrada Familia

This very short post is about visiting the Temple of the Sagrada Familia, the most recognizable building in Barcelona.

In one, not-very-poetic word: WOW!

Prior to Barcelona, I think I had gotten a little inured to the beauty and accomplishment (not to mention the spirituality) of big European cathedrals. Notre Dame, the Duomo in Orvieto, and even the Vatican are all spectacular and important, but also somehow similar and a little sterile.Terrible to say, but maybe not an uncommon sentiment.

Sagrada Familia is completely different. Three differentiators spring to mind:

First, because it is unfinished -a work in progress- it feels very much alive. The interior is filled with scaffolding, and arc welders, and power tools. Man’s daily work in praising God.

Second, the design is like nothing else I have ever seen: so many shapes inspired by nature (honeycombs, leaves, fruit), words on the walls and towers (”Sanctus”), accessible sculpture, whimsy. No other cathedral seems so natural and so approachable. The “Gaudi workshop” and the museum in the crypt do a great job of explaining it all.

Third, the stamp of an individual, Gaudi, is everywhere. He was a special architect, and some courageous group entrusted this project to his vision.

Overall, a truly amazing place: very inspiring, even to the kids. Maybe this experience is better off without the intellectualizing. Maybe it is the hand of God.

Barcelona has been wonderful. More words and pictures later.

Comments

Gaudi’s Temple of the Sagrada Familia

This very short post is about visiting the Temple of the Sagrada Familia, the most recognizable building in Barcelona.

In one, not-very-poetic word: WOW!

Prior to Barcelona, I think I had gotten a little inured to the beauty and accomplishment (not to mention the spirituality) of big European cathedrals. Notre Dame, the Duomo in Orvieto, and even the Vatican are all spectacular and important, but also somehow similar and a little sterile.Terrible to say, but maybe not an uncommon sentiment.

Sagrada Familia is completely different. Three differentiators spring to mind:

First, because it is unfinished -a work in progress- it feels very much alive. The interior is filled with scaffolding, and arc welders, and power tools. Man’s daily work in praising God.

Second, the design is like nothing else I have ever seen: so many shapes inspired by nature (honeycombs, leaves, fruit), words on the walls and towers (”Sanctus”), accessible sculpture, whimsy. No other cathedral seems so natural and so approachable. The “Gaudi workshop” and the museum in the crypt do a great job of explaining it all.

Third, the stamp of an individual, Gaudi, is everywhere. He was a special architect, and some courageous group entrusted this project to his vision.

Overall, a truly amazing place: very inspiring, even to the kids. Maybe this experience is better off without the intellectualizing. Maybe it is the hand of God.

Barcelona has been wonderful. More words and pictures later.

Comments

300 feet over Barcelona

This very short post is about taking the cablecar (Teleferic) across the harbor in Barcelona.

We are sitting in the outdoor cafe on the Montjuic side of the line, having a drink. Zola is almost hyperactive with relief, celebrating with chocolate milk the fact that he survived the experience.

The port side of the cableway is a tower, protruding about 300 feet out of a jetty, close to the beaches and the Olympic Village. The cablecar travels about a quarter mile to a mid-station, climbing maybe 150 feet higher. After taking on passengers, the car goes another quarter mile, and ends on Montjuic, the little mountain which borders Barcelona to the South.

The cablecar was great: a classic Barcelona experience. Lu was asleep in her (newly acquired) stroller, but Zola was awake and very nervous about it all. A sample of his questions from the 20 minutes we were waiting:

“How long has this cablecar been running?”

“Has anyone ever died on this cable car”

“How do you know that no one has died? Did you look it up on Wikipedia?”

“How high up are we?”

“If we fell from here, would we die?”

“If the tower collapsed, would it be like we were falling, or would we go down more slowly?”

“If we are falling into the water, should I try to point my toes and go in straight, or do a belly flop?”

“Is this thing really safe?”

“Do I have to do this?”

When we got to the other side, Zola was the first one off, and sprinted up the stairs. His relief and joy are wonderful, like a small rebirth.

A short secondary point: midway through the ride, Tallulah woke up from her nap and said, “I need agua.” And fell back asleep. She is becoming bilingual, I guess.

Comments (4)