Change In Plans

Jaisalmer - Rajasthan - India

This short post is about the cancellation of today’s flight from Jaisalmer to Udaipur, and the overland drive to Jodhpur which replaced it.

This morning we woke up in our desert tents to the sound of Indian Air Force jet fighters taking off from the nearby airfield. Even from a distance of 3-4 km, the noise was unbelievably loud. Zola, of course, asked, “Is Pakistan invading?”

All morning long, the planes roared overhead. Apparently the US Air Force arrives next week for joint exercises, and the IAF wants to be ready.

WHO LIKES CRICKET?

We delivered our gift of 150 pencils to the village school nearby. The principal seemed a little confused, in part because he only has about 50 students, but he and the kids were very gracious. Zola took pictures with the whole student body, and was relieved that there were no attempted kisses.

Before leaving the tent camp,the staff took us on a long-awaited tour of the 400-year-old waterworks that supplied the area’s farms. We walked down a set of stairs which led us 30 feet underground, and then along a barely lit passageway to a giant cistern. When India (the person) realized that the hundreds of dark spots on the walls and ceilings were bats, and that our presence was waking them up, she declared the tour over, and hustled the kids back up to daylight.

We went to the small civilian airport in the early afternoon. A small group of passengers was gathered for the lone commercial flight of the day: the 2:20pm Kingfisher flight to Jodhpur, and on to Udaipur.

For the first time in our travelling lives, India and I were required to remove all batteries from cameras and cell phones, and to put the batteries into our checked luggage. We were told that this was to ensure that no photos could be taken of the Jaisalmer airfield. Maybe the USAF has insisted.

Indian security is very thorough. Having had many recent domestic terror incidents, as well as the perceived threat from Pakistan, combined with a deep-rooted societal impulse toward bureaucracy, means multiple screens, pat-downs, luggage searches and official stamps. This is even in the minute Jaisalmer airport. Overstaffing seems to make it all go reasonably quickly.

The twelve or so passengers settled into the small departure lounge, expecting to board quickly. India (the person) and I chatted to a very nice English/American couple, taking their first child-free vacation in many years.

Just as we should have been boarding, a Kingfisher airline representative came in to tell us that the flight would be delayed 45 minutes.No one seemed fazed, and we went back to talking. Eventually, Tallulah and I entertained ourselves with juggling and songs.

About 20 minutes later, one of the airport officials came in, and made a small two-hand gesture to the Kingfisher rep. Nothing was said, but the same gesture that a modest first-base umpire would use to indicate a runner is safe after a pick-off attempt can also mean “we are closed,” or “it’s all done.”

A few minutes later, Mr. Kingfisher indicated that the flight was cancelled
due to bad weather. In unison, the passengers all looked out the big picture window at the sunshine and the windless blue sky. Sensing disbelief, the spokesman explained that there was a big sandstorm between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, and that the military (?) had closed the airport to incoming planes.

We debated our options: stay in Jaisalmer and wait for tomorrow’s flight; drive 4 hours to Jodhpur tonight; or drive 8 hours to Udaipur, our original destination.

We decided to pile all of our luggage on the roof of a hired SUV, and drive the 280 km to Jodhpur this evening. Tomorrow morning we will drive down to Udaipur, seeing some Jain temples along the way.

We are sorry to miss one of our two nights at the famous Lake Palace in Udaipur, and eight hours in a car with small children usually maxes out my parenting skills more than once.

That said, we are referring to this entire year as a change in plans, so an occasional hiccup in the itinerary is to be expected. Frankly, we have been pleasantly surprised to date (knock wood) to have had so few travel and health problems.

Incidentally, we are now about halfway between Jaisalmer and Jodhpur on the road, and have seen no signs of a sandstorm.