Archive for April, 2011

Packing for Paris

Greetings from Istanbul’s Ataturk Airport, where the rich diversity of human culture is always on display.

We have played the ‘packing for Paris’ word game with Tallulah about 9 million times. It drives her crazy when I say I am packing “a Tallulah.” She says, “I’m a person, DAD! You are supposed to be packing things, DAD!” It is difficult to capture in written form the mix of exasperation, humour, and polite indulgence (as if for a not-very-bright puppy) that Tallulah expresses with the word “DAD!” The mix may shift toward exasperation over time.

So yesterday we were packing for Paris for real. India, Tallulah and I all felt woefully dowdy and un-hip, in our Cape Town duds. It’s a paradox: South Africa has great design and housewares, but ugly clothes and shoes. Not sure why. Zola was oblivious. India and Tallulah have made clear that they will be packing a lot more on the trip back from Paris than on the way there. The woman at the check-in counter even remarked, “You are traveling light.” Ha ha. Wait until she sees what we come back with.

On paper, Turkish Airlines is a convenient way to get to Europe. Direct flight from Cape Town to Istanbul, with an hour stop in Johannesburg. Easy connection to anywhere. The planes are brand new, and the in-flight entertainment is great (important for traveling with kids). It is also much less out of the way than changing planes in Dubai or Abu Dhabi.

So in theory, this should have been easy and pleasant. Back in our travel-round-the-world days, I think it would have been fine. We are out of practice, though. No one slept well on the flight. External factors played a role. The screamingest baby in the history of air travel was seated one row in front of us. Even the flight attendants, who are used to this kind of thing, realized it was a hazard to flight safety: someone might pull the emergency exit to get away. They seated the mother and baby in the galley for most of the flight. Seriously.

Even though the flight was not very bumpy, a half dozen passengers around us got airsick and barfed. Zola was awakened when the woman sitting behind him spattered projectile vomit on his hand and arm. Nice.

About an hour after the vomiting, the cabin was filled with a horrible smell of rotting meat and pumpkins. Zola had gotten his unintended revenge by taking off his shoes. I double bagged the shoes in plastic, and put them in the overhead compartment. His socks were still pretty offensive, but at least we didn’t get moved to the galley with the screaming baby.

Finally, my fingers swelled a lot during the flight (sympathetic reaction to watching ‘127 Hours’ on the awesome in-flight entertainment system). I switched my wedding band to my pinky, which wasn’t quite swollen enough to hold it on. Somehow the ring dropped deep into the mechanical bowels of Zola’s seat, clanking as it fell. When we landed, after all of the other passengers had disembarked, they sent an engineering team to disassemble the seat. 15 minutes later, we all applauded as a flight attendant slipped the ring back on my sausage-like finger.

We straggled down the steps to an airport bus, jammed with our fellow passengers, who had been waiting for all of this time. If looks could kill, all four of us (even sweet little Tallulah) would be lying dead on the tarmac. I felt badly for a few passengers who must have had tight connections, and shoved us out of the way as they sprinted out of the bus at the terminal.

So, we are slouching around the airport in Istanbul for a few hours. Tired, ratty with each other, and generally off of our peak travelling form. When we get to France in 5 hours, we can rest a little, unpack for Paris, and start enjoying our holiday. Adventure awaits.

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Pattern recognition in Africa

Greetings from Cape Town!

We have been back in South Africa for about 16 months, and I am starting to recognize patterns a little bit.  A few that come to mind are described below.

Labor strikes

- April and May are strike season.  Last year, I could not believe how much strike activity there was, and how little people seemed to notice.  Seeing a slightly reduced, but similar, pattern this year, I realize that labor action is just part of the annual rhythm in post-apartheid South Africa.  Contracts are coming up for renewal, and the combination of strong unions, a history of mass action, and a still hugely inequitous division of income mean that there will be strikes.  Over time, organized labor’s influence will decline, and workers and management will figure out a more collaborative means of resolving differences.  In the meantime, every April/May, we will expect strikes.

Easter traffic - the top story on the hourly news broadcasts over Easter weekend is always about traffic.  South Africa has a four-day weekend for Easter, and kids are on school holidays.  There is also a massive religious gathering (>1 million members of the Zion Christian Church) in a remote northwest corner of the country.  A big percentage of the population is on the road.  The Thursday and Friday news is always about how many cars are going through various traffic pinch points, mostly between Johannesburg and Durban, and where the impossibly long, multi-kilometre, traffic jams are.  There are also lots of interviews with traffic police, promising to crack down on speeders and drunk drivers.  The news later in the holiday period will be about the number of traffic deaths, with commentary on whether they are higher or lower than last year’s totals.  There will also be stories about the horrific accidents that kill >10 people at a go.

Road Racing - Closer to home, I am observing India’s behavior pattern before a big race.  She is running the 2 Oceans ultramarathon tomorrow morning.  Whenever she is extremely fit, and  gearing up to run a fast race, the few days beforehand are tense, and she has a host of small physical maladies.  Advil gets taken, general fretting occurs, and she says, “I am just hoping to finish.  I don’t care about my time.”  I think she will run her personal best tomorrow, and will finish in the top 2% of women over 40.  Just a guess.

Reading - Also closer to home, I am recognizing a pattern in Zola’s behavior.  Whenever he and I are driving somewhere together, I want to talk and spend quality time with my son.  He just wants to read his book (he is plowing through the CHERUB series of spy-kid novels by Michael Muchamore at the moment).  I think I was exactly the same when I was 11, and I would guess that my parents felt the same way.

Surfing

- Finally, I spent the last two mornings surfing at Muizenberg on the Indian Ocean coast.  Muizenberg is the surfing equivalent of a green beginner slope on a ski mountain.  The water is warm, the waves  (even when they are big), break slowly and gently.  A few hours at Muizenberg, on the big boards, and I convince myself that I can actually surf.  As happened again this evening, I take this new-found confidence into the colder and much more treacherous waters in Llandudno, outside our house.  Suddenly, I can surf Llandudno much better.  I come back to the house full of excitement: I can surf.  This is proof.  Two more sessions in Llandudno, and I will be humbled and demoralized (and physically battered) again.  The highlight today was that Zola went out and surfed in the deep water at Muizenberg.  He looked great and had fun.  My selfish hobby can sometimes be recharacterized as Dad & son time.

Summary - pattern recognition is the single biggest benefit of aging.

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