Archive for November, 2010

On little cat feet

Greetings from Cape Town!

Warning: this post contains two maudlin poems and a string of unconnected thoughts.  The first poem is by Carl Sandburg.

Fog
The fog comes
on little cat feet.
 
It sits looking
over harbor and city
on silent haunches
and then moves on.

I was thinking about this poem for two reasons.  The Atlantic Seaboard in Cape Town almost never has a marine layer, but on an otherwise sunny Friday afternoon, the fog rolled in from the sea.  Zola and I were down on the beach playing soccer with some kids, and in a matter of minutes, the sun was obscured, and everything looked like a dream sequence from a David Lynch movie.  The almost-Caribbean blue of the water contrasting with the greenish gray of the air and the sky. 

I went out and surfed (badly) in the heavy fog.  The only adjective I could come up with to describe it was “trippy.”  To my delight, Zola came back down to the beach in his wetsuit, and joined me with his boogie board in the surf.  He said it was too beautiful to not get out into the middle of it.

The other reason for the Carl Sandburg poem is that India got Tallulah a kitten on Friday.  They have named the kitten Tigger.  Our neighbors, Mel and Roxy, are giving away the offspring of their hellcat, Bubbaloo.  The kitten acquisition was not exactly authorized: I sort of hate cats.  It is difficult for me to say no to Tallulah under any circumstances.  It is impossible to say no when she is dancing around the house singing, “The wonderful thing about Tiggers, is that Tiggers are wonderful things!”  A moment of weakness that I will have years to regret.

Other unconnected thoughts.

Zola finished exams this week, and has essentially finished Grade 5.  During the course of the year, he had 64 “cycle tests” and “assessments” plus 16 full-on exams.  He passed Afrikaans, which was a big boost to his self-confidence.  I question an educational system that expects 10-year olds to behave with the maturity and self-discipline of university students, but we are proud of him for getting through it.

For the last several months, India has been working with a group of fifth-grade girls from a very tough township called Manenberg.  Every Friday, she goes out to their school, Red River, and leads them in physical exercise and games.  She is trying to instill life skills and self-confidence, and understand the challenges they face.  She likes spending time with the girls, and it gives her insight into the policy realities of trying to improve girls’ lives more generally.

Yesterday morning, India rented a municipal bus, picked up 35 of the Red River girls in Manenberg, and led them on a hike up Lion’s Head mountain.  A wonderful initiative, but  this story ends sort of badly.

I walked with Tallulah at the back of the pack.  Zola was somewhere in the middle, remarkably composed as the only boy amongst 35 girls his same age.  Lion’s Head is not particularly dangerous, but it is a real mountain hike.  Everyone got to the top all right, and there were pictures and celebrations.  On the way back down, a group of girls at the front were running.  One girl, Kayleen, tripped, and fell about 15 feet off a small cliff.  She broke her arm, loosened a few teeth, and was badly cut up. 

The mountain rescue service sent a helicopter for her, which was pretty dramatic.  India held Kayleen for an hour, getting covered in blood, until the paramedics stabilized her and flew her down to the base of the mountain.  India ran down, and rode to the hospital in the ambulance with Kayleen. 

In the meantime, the drama level ran high amongst the 34 remaining girls.  A lot of them were scared and crying.  Fortunately, a community group from Maneneberg happened to be hiking down at the same time, and many of the adults knew these girls.  They helped calm them, and get everyone down to the base of the mountain safely.  It was a nerve-wracking experience, particularly doing all of this and keeping an eye on Tallulah.  The only humorous moment was when we were nearly at the bottom, and Tallulah asked me to carry her, saying, “Dad, my dogs are barking!”   Aside from that, it was tense and unpleasant.

India stayed at the hospital for five hours, until Kayleen’s cuts were sutured, and her arm was set.  Kayleen’s mother arrived eventually, but the mother-daughter dynamic was frosty and formal.  Not sure what is going on there.

Poor India felt horribly guilty and responsible, even though it clearly was not her fault.  All of the Red River girls really hope that India continues working with them.  I hope so too.

The second poem is called “Eight Bells,” and was written by my mother’s cousin, Peter Davis.  Peter wrote this on the occasion of his father’s death in 1998.  Peter himself died last week, and Mom sent this around.  It is longer than Fog.  I found it beautiful and unbearably sad.  I wonder what my own kids will remember when I am dying?  I hope we don’t find out for a long time.

Eight Bells
1
Our father lay dying at 2 a.m.
He is my favorite, said Eileen.
Each midnight she’d toast 4 slices of raisin

bread, buttered.
He would eat them whole, she explained.
We stood around his bed.
Here, see how the skin is mottled. This
is the process.
2
It comes like the tide.
See how the mottling has moved from
leg to hip. Seven breaths like breakers
on a ragged coast, then 40 seconds of silence,
repeating, through the day and night.
2:05 a.m.
It’s happening, Eileen says. She holds my father’s
left hand. My sister, Helen holds his right

hand. He opens his eyes. My sister
says, Hi Daddy. We’re here Daddy.
We love you. It is 2:07. He closes his eyes and does not breathe.
I kiss my father’s forehead.
3
I walk down the hall, past
prints of landscapes,
dancers,
a fire extinguisher,
to the nurse’s station,

to make some phone calls,
thinking of my father singing,
“I’ll Be Around,”
in front of the mirror shaving when we were kids,
in the car on the way to the football games,
at family reunions,
at the nurse’s stations during the last days of his life.
He had a wonderful voice. I was having difficulty
keying phone numbers. He was an excellent punster
and had a fine sense of humor that often involved
shooting one of several persons.
4
Knock knock, he said, on countless occasions.

Who’s there, someone would answer.
Orange juice.
Orange juice, who?

Orange juice sorry you made me cry,
he would say, and everyone would make a face

like it was lemon juice,
and he would fill the room
with that wonderful wild-ass laugh.
5
They came into his room, one by one,
on the last full day of his life.
He was very special, they said.
He was such a love, said one.
He always said I love you to me, said another.
He had an extraordinary appetite, said a male nurse,
and a smile like sunlight, he added.
6
During the last full day and night before
he died, we sat and stood around his bed:
Jessica, Will, Pete, Carol, Elizabeth,
Tucker, Mark, Deb, Helen, Byron Jr.,
and Linda. Will started the “Whiffenpoof
Song” and we sang together. Jessica
told Byron how unspeakably handsome
he was and how much she loved him. Elizabeth
and Helen kissed and stroked him, and told him
everything was okay. Tucker distributed
his usual rib-cracking hugs. Will put
on the Mills Brothers, one of Byron’s favorites.
Pete (that’s me) read poems by Charles Bukowski
and Mark Strand. I saw my brother, Mark, fill
with grief and silence. My little brother,
Byron Jr. held his father’s foot through
the sheets — silent–tears catching the dim light.
7
I see my father, much younger than I
am now, refereeing football in West
Barrington, leaves airborne in the fall sunlight.

I see him driving to Howard Johnson’s
with the windows down and the radio
blaring double play, Pesky to Doerr to Goodman.
I see him snag a football one-handed
at full gallop.
I hear him singing
with that wild light in his eyes: “Only You,”
“Slingin the Ink,” “Over There,” Then Thousand
Men of Harvard,” Baby Won’t You Please Come
Home,” and my personal favorites — “I’ll
Be Glad When You’re Dead You Dirty Dog,” and
“Hooray! Hooray! My Father’s Gonna be Hung.”
8
I see my father running free, before
a fair wind off the New England Coast,
a single sail, on a great circle: “From
where we come is to where we shall return,”
reads my calendar for October.
He was the last of his generation.
Eight Bells, Dad. What’s the course?
We relieve the watch.

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Game of Life

Greetings from Cape Town!

What is it all about?

What is it all about?

This has been an emotionally volatile last few days.  On Sunday we learned that close friends have separated (messily, it seems) after 15 years of marriage.  On Tuesday, another friend from the same community died of cancer. He was a young 49, and can only be described as a man in full.  He will be missed.  There was also a very high-profile murder of a young English woman in Cape Town on her honeymoon over the weekend.  This jangles my nerves (maybe irrationally) about security concerns here.

These events have had India and me talking seriously, and had us exchanging phone calls and e-mails with our friends in the U.S.  I can’t make any sense of it.  It has made me more aware of what I am calling “the fleeting sweetness of normalcy.”  This time we have as a family, just normal day-to-day living, without any (evident) life-changing stress or pressures, is incredibly precious. 

I need to treasure these times, and engage emotionally more with India and with the kids and with family and friends.  

In that spirit, Zola and I played the board game “Life” after dinner this evening.  He asked for the actual off-line game in a box for his birthday, after playing the iTouch version for the last year.   Tallulah was my designated spinner and life-decision advisor. 

The game itself was not very competitive.  Zola ended up a multi-millionaire doctor, and I ended up nearly penniless as a computer programmer turned accountant.  Five times during the game he ended up on spaces that required him to “sue me for $100,000.”  I was deep in debt for most of the game, and had to live with my six offspring in a mobile home.  It was interesting to me that Zola and Tallulah  automatically put the drivers on the right side of the little cars at the beginning of the game.  They are becoming South African.  It was also interesting that when I chose to make my character gay (ie, I put a little blue figure into the passenger seat when I got married instead of a pink figure), both kids noticed and objected.  Maybe we should have lived longer in the West Village.

As we made our way around the board, though, I was thinking about our friend’s untimely death, and about the highs and lows of my own game of life. 

Just in the last two weeks, there have been so many small, almost mundane highs: hosting Tallulah’s 6th birthday party on the beach…

Birthday games on Llandudno beach

Birthday games on Llandudno beach

attending last night’s US vs. South Africa soccer match at Cape Town Stadium, with Zola and three of his friends; helping a new friend with his unbelievably great small business; having dinner in Istanbul; running part of the Three Peaks Challenge with my beautiful endurance-machine wife; having a great afternoon of surfing with Zola at Muizenberg; Tallulah getting accepted (finally!) into the private girls’ school that we have been coveting since we got back to Cape Town. 

Even the mere fact of lying on our living-room floor with two great kids, playing a game that I loved when I was Zola’s age.

I am thinking about how many things have to be going well for any of these events to take place, and for us to enjoy them.  We have to be alive, for one thing, and healthy, and have a little bit of money, and be physically together and reasonably functional.  Pedestrian and bourgeois miracles, perhaps, but I sure am appreciating them at the moment.

Tallulah singing in her school play

Tallulah singing in her school play

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Istanbul Airport

I’m heartsick about missing Tallulah’s birthday today, and generally I hate being stuck somewhere for hours with not much to do. The only saving grace is that I’m stuck at the Istanbul Airport, which is one of my favorite places in the world.

Full disclosure: for the first time, I am waiting out the hours until the midnight flight to Johannesburg in the business-class lounge. And it is nowhere near as exotic as the rest of the airport. Mostly middle-aged business guys watching soccer on TV and reading newpapers. Collectively, we miss our families, and wish we were at home.

Many of my other experiences in this airport have been memorable. I spent hours one night drinking beer with South African mercenaries who were going home from Iraq on leave. I stood in an endless passport queue with the Latvian national basketball team. They weren’t as tall as I would have expected.

While boarding a flight to Istanbul, my small children got elbowed aside and nearly crushed by a mob of Mecca-bound Algerian pilgrims. I have idled away time wondering what the appropriate collective noun is for a large group of women who are completely covered by black tent dresses, head and face coverings. Pails of veils? A boatload of burqas?

I romanticize this airport as the epicenter of exotic.

A few sightings just now have made me laugh, and think of our family trip around the world.

I waited in a check-in line with a planeload of passengers bound for Ashgabad, the capital of Turkmenistan (of course). Every passenger had a trolley piled high with 5-f huge soft-sided bags, wrapped in tape and plastic. Every single passenger. I gather that: Turkish Airlines doesn’t charge for extra luggage, that consumer goods must be hard to come by in Turkmenistan, and that customs enforcement must be a little lax. The sheer amount of stuff being transported made me think that we could have carted a lot more around on our trip if I hadn’t been such a grouch about luggage.

In the lounge they are serving a cold drink that reminded me of one of the funniest moments of our entire family trip. We were in Gocek, Turkey, geting ready to go out on a sailboat for a week. We stopped for lunch at a pizzeria before boarding the boat, for what we thought would be our last fishless meal for a week. The restaurant had this awesome drinks machine, that was gushing a frothy, creamy, vanilla milkshakey drink in a circulating fountain. Both kids locked onto this spectacle, and ordered by pointing. The anticipation grew when the waiter pulled two giant frosted mugs from a freezer, and made a huge production of filling the mugs, and blowing the foam, and making comic sounds like “Mmmmmmm.” The mugs he set in front of the kids were overflowing with magical, cold, foamy white stuff. Zola grabbed his first, and took a big sip. It turned out to be sour milk, and I thought he was going to keel over, barf, and scream, all at the same time. The gap between how awesome it looked and how awful it tasted was as wide as any food experience I’ve ever had.

I bought an ice cream cone from a classic Turkish ice cream guy, wearing a white top hat, and scooping with a long metal paddle.

This trip to Istanbul was too short to see or do anything in the city. Still, I just love it here. The energy, and the determination, and the pride of the people are powerful and exciting. The economy is booming, and there were more English and American banker types around than I have ever seen before. Turks believe (with great confidence and some justification) that this is their time, and here they come.

I think I will go out and wander around the main part of the airport for my last few hours. Maybe I can transport some of that confidence and energy back to self-doubting South Africa.

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Edge of the envelope

 

Greetings from Cape Town!

In the last couple of weeks, everyone else in the family has achieved things that seem beyond their previous capabilities.  Maybe it is coincidental, but it has been fun for me to watch.  At the risk of sounding like a self-aggrandizing holiday letter:

Tallulah has started reading.  For several months she has been close, reading a few words when we looked at books together, surprising us by having clearly understood something that no one read to her.  I actually think she was holding back, sneaker, because she likes having us read to her.  Last week, though, she just decided to reveal all and read aloud.  No hesitation, just words tumbling out of her. 

Tallulah is also pushing the edge of an envelope called turning 6.  Hard to believe that we celebrated her birthday in Rajasthan two years ago already.  Time flies, so we must be having fun.  She and India organized a great birthday party on the beach on Friday afternoon.  The weather was awful, cloudy and windy and cold, but the kids had a grand time splashing in the freezing water and running in the sand.  The parents grumbled, but we retreated to the house and opened a few bottles of wine, and had a very civilized adult party, watching while the kids all went into the pool.

Zola has finally turned the corner in speaking Afrikaans.  We have had a great tutor for the last couple of months, and something has clicked with grammar and vocabulary, and away he goes.  We are still worried about his grades in Afrikaans, and exams and cycle tests, etc., but he is actually getting it.  India and I have worried a lot about his academic self confidence, and it would be great if Afrikaans somehow turned from a weakness to a strength.  Maybe we should let him walk a little before we expect him to run.

Zola also had a swimming time trial for the Surf Lifesaving Club on Thursday. For the first time in his life, I saw his mother’s fierce competitiveness come through.  When Zola and I practiced for the time trial, he complained, and swam side stroke, and adjusted his goggles a dozen times.  On Thursday, though, he just swam as hard and fast as he could.  He didn’t quite make the cutoff, but he knocked two minutes off his previous best time.  He said, “It was like a man came into my brain and threw a big switch, and all I wanted to do was beat those other kids.  I was really tired, but I just had to beat them.”  This is so far removed from his normal behavior that it was quite stunning.  If he qualifies on the swimming (it is difficult), he can compete in the surf lifesaving events against other clubs, and I think that is driving him as well.

India pushed the envelope the furthest.  Last Friday, she was invited to run in a crazy, 120-person Cape Town endurance race called the Three Peaks.  The distance is listed as +/- 50 kilometers, climbing and descending about 2700 meters.  The distances are not precise, because there is no fixed course.  The rough course is: start at sea level in the center of Cape Town (Greenmarket Square) and run to the top of Devils Peak (900 meters), then run back down to Greenmarket Square and run up to MacLear’s Beacon at the top of Table Mountain (1100 meters), then back down to Greenmarket Square and up to the top of Lion’s Head (700 meters), then finally back to Greenmarket Square.  She started at 5am and finished at 2pm.

To put it in context (for New Englanders, anyway), this is like running East from the Vermont-New Hampshire border, to the top of Mount Washington, then up another 3,000 feet or so, then back down.  I am in awe.

The Three Peaks Challenge is deep in the realm of psychotic endurance events.  India hooked up with a great support team of veteran runners and their long-suffering spouses, so she had good guidance in finding the right trails (getting lost on Devils Peak in the dark  is a real risk), and having her supplies and dry clothes handy.  It was raining for the first part of the race, and very misty on the first two peaks.  India, however, was in her element.  When the kids and I found her, coming down the Platteklip Trail on Table Mountain, she was drenched, but deliriously happy in an endorphin-fueled runner’s high (pupils dilated, permagrin, high fives all around).  Two hours later I caught up with her as she climbed Lion’s Head slowly in the bright sunshine.  She said she was “empty,” in part because I had missed our connection where I was supposed to bring potatoes and peanut butter, but her mood was good.  The fact that she refused to take off her jacket in the heat made me concerned that she was not exactly compos mentis

We climbed Lion’s Head together: it is the 45th time she has climbed it in 2010. The checkpoint at the top gave her a Snickers bar, some water, and a banana.  Suddenly the old India was back, and we raced down the mountain and back to town.  She crossed the finish line with a huge smile. 

We sat in Greenmarket Square with her team mates for an hour after the race.  They, and all of the other finishers we met, were incredibly nice, interesting, people: young archaeologist, recent heart-surgery patient, ex-chainsmoker, mild Aspergers sufferer.  They had welcomed India into their lunatic-fringe fraternity of extreme trail running.  We were both sorry to say goodbye and go pick up the kids.  They told India that the new training schedule for the 2011 race will be e-mailed around on Monday.

So, envelope edges being pushed all around.  My only claim to same is that I have been officially named the Provisional Deputy Assistant Flags Coach for the lifesaving club.  “Flags” is one of the competitive events in lifesaving, and it involves a lot of shouting at kids as they lie face down in the sand.  I’m not sure whether I am good at it yet, but Tallulah (my Deputy Deputy Assistant) and I are having fun on Sunday mornings.

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