Change In Plans

This short post is about out drive from Fes down to Erfoud, which is in the Sahara Desert, and close to the Morocco - Algeria border.

Yesterday morning we left Fes (still feeling unresolved about whether to celebrate or lament life in the medina), and we drove about eight hours southeast to Erfoud. The drive was dramatic and beautiful: up into the Middle Atlas mountains, past two ski areas in pine-forested Alpine towns, to the headwaters of the Ziz River, past thousands of hectares of sheep grazing, across the arid high plains, into a land of adobe structures and beige dust. We had a final, very dramatic, look down into the Ziz River valley, where it spreads and irrigates about a million (literally) date palms in a delta, sprawling 500 feet below the edge of a desert canyon.

We are with a professional guide, named Khalid, for the next several days. Even despite the practical discomforts of the Ramadan fast (not even allowed water), he is excellent company, and and is an impassioned and well informed advocate for Morocco. He understands my ambivalence about the conservatism and lack of progress (vs. tradition and the family/community continuity which are associated), but sees an imperative to preserve these old ways of life. Not sure I agree, but we have days to discuss. The speed of change in this society seems limited by its innate conservatism (from religion, from the monarchy, from family structure) the low adaptability of human capital (52% literacy rate), and by relatively poor infrastructure. The current king seems relatively good, but unlikely to take risks in pushing for more rapid development.

The kids were actually wonderful on the long ride, in part because we stopped frequently, and there was a lot to see. We are very lucky that they get along well, and are good travellers. this would be a very different experience if this were not true.

Last night we stayed at a sprawling hotel in Erfoud, the last real town before the desert begins. It is hot and dry and very sunny, which is what we expected, I guess. The hotel is overrun with the film crew from a Jerry Bruckheimer movie called “The Persian Prince,” which is filming nearby for the week. We did not spot Jake Gyllenhaal, Alfred Molina, or Ben Kingsley, who are the stars. Morocco has a booming on-location film industry, mostly farther south, in Ouarzazate. It was strange, after seeing practically no foreigners in Fes, to be surrounded by Americans and Brits way out here.

The kids are enjoying the big pool, and running around in open space. Zola and I are about to start school. In a few hours we will drive a couple of hours to the camp in the Sahara, where we will spend the next few days riding camels, hiking in the dunes, and sleeping under the stars.

Morocco is thought-provoking, dramatic, challenging and beautiful. I am glad we made this the first stop outside of the US/EU comfort zone.